Find balance in an imbalanced world
Published in Mind Cafe
Feb 24, 2024 (Medium.com)
Life is like surfing. Some days you ride the wave, other days the wave rides you.
Everywhere in nature, you can find representations of the Tao or, “the absolute principle underlying the universe” as defined by Oxford Languages.
A wave captures the duality of nature with its crashing and settling, growing and receding, and its tide beneath pushing and pulling.
Life is a balancing act between yin and yang. We all experience moments of yin — darkness, peace, passivity, and calmness as well as moments of yang — light, action, rigidness, and pushing.
As Confuscious remarked, “The interplay of opposites constitutes the universe.”
This is the story of a humbling surfing experience that reminded me of the importance of finding balance.
The sun was just beginning to set when we pulled up on an empty New Jersey beach. It was early October and I was tired from a full day of work at the hospital and the long drive.
The day was windy with waves at least 6 feet tall. You could feel their strength from the road as they barreled towards shore.
There wasn’t a moment to waste. My buddy Brenden and I unloaded our boards from the bed of his red Dodge and set off to get the last few sets before the sun dipped below the horizon.
After racing across the road and passing the boardwalk, we threw our boards down and scrambled to get our wetsuits on. This is always the moment with the most anticipation — you can see the waves in front of you and feel the adrenaline mounting with every pull and stretch of neoprene over the contours of your body.
The time had arrived to paddle out. With waves crashing every couple of seconds, it looked like there was no easy way to make it past the break.
This video demonstrates the immense power of waves. While the waves we encountered were not nearly as big, it gives you an image in your head.
We said a silent prayer, picked up our longboards, and ran to the water. The sun sunk a little lower in the sky turning the dark Atlantic Ocean a blood orange hue.
We weren’t concerned with sundown, we just wanted to get high on nature.
With chests glued to boards and arms in full revolution, we set off.
Boom! One wave crashes spraying white water at us.
Crash!! Another explodes ahead pushing us 15 feet backward toward the shore.
I should have turned back then and there but I had invested too much into being here. I wouldn’t accept going home without catching a wave.
With boards still beneath us, we turned toward the mighty waves once more. Brenden, a more experienced surfer than me, took the lead.
With heart and lungs in overdrive, I struggled to keep up.
Following his tail, I jumped one crest, then narrowly made it over another. We were nearing the end of the break. Only one wave remained.
Make it over and we’d be home free.
Climbing the face with each paddle, the wave seemed to grow as if opposing our victory. It was much larger than the other waves and already started to curve over our heads.
Brenden managed to make it over just as the wave broke. I — a few seconds behind — did not. With power greater than an Olympic wrestler, I was slammed into the ocean.
I don’t know exactly how long I was held underwater but it seemed like forever. I struggled to hold my breath as the wave rolled me several times before releasing its clutches on me.
With the last of my energy, I swam for air.
Reaching the surface, I managed to take a breath before another wave blasted me. Disoriented, I breached once more and gasped.
The sun ceased to show any sign of existence. It was dark and I could see just a few feet in front of me.
It sounded like someone was yelling but my ears were too waterlogged to make out what they were saying.
Suddenly I noticed how close the jetty was. The jagged rocks were not further than 5 feet away to my right. I was nearly standing on top of them and more waves were coming.
I tugged my leash to retrieve my board — my only lifeline in this treacherous situation.
In one last desperate effort and with everything at stake, I pushed forward. I was too far from the shore and couldn’t risk paddling towards the sand this close to the rocks.
So I paddled towards the break at the end of the jetty that had eluded me before.
Somehow between the chaotic waves and the pointy rocks were calm waters. Somehow I made it past them safely.
While catching my breath, I was able to make out the origin of the yelling — it was Brenden. He was shouting my name in a frenzy to locate me. I shouted back to let him know I was alright and he told me to, “get my ass back to shore.”
I don’t know how I made it out with only a few scratches but I’m happy I did. I don’t plan on going surfing at dusk again and when I do go surfing, I make sure I am well rested.
The ocean is not to be reckoned with. Its power far surpasses that of any swimmer. It must be treated with utmost respect for one mistake could cost you everything.
This is why in today’s task-oriented world self-care is so important. Had I been better rested, I might have decided to turn back or not gone at all.
Our decisions are directly influenced by our mood and energy levels. If we aren’t well rested, we may try to cut corners or make rash decisions that can have negative implications.
When we solely focus on doing, our equilibrium is thrown out of wack. Too much yang creates stress. We need the yin to bring back balance.
For this reason, relaxing activities such as taking a bath, going on a nature walk, or reading a book are just as important as going to work, finishing a project, and exercising.
As Zhuangzi said, “Silence and non-action are the root of all things.”
Take time to strengthen your roots so that when the wave of life crashes, you aren’t swept away.
Lessons From A Fox, Fisherman, and Forest On Overthinking
On a cold evening not too long ago, I drove by a fox prancing over the snow after a winter storm.
Written by Jesse Pedersen
·Writer for Mind Cafe
Troubadour. Truth Seeker. Hopeless Dreamer. Find me on Spotify